Addy Bassin's MacArthur Beverages - Fine Wine and Spirits Since 1957

Wine: France:

Alsace

2007 Alsace: classically delicious, particularly for Gewurztraminer
By Panos Kakaviatos for MacArthur Beverages

Just back from tasting the 2007 vintage from Alsace, and it seems that the Wine Spectator’s A rating is merited. From the better producers, the hallmark of this vintage is crisp acidity matched by fine richness. What more can one want from their Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer? Pierre Trimbach said 2007 can be described with three words: ‘balance, balance, and balance’… He compared it to the fine 2001 vintage. Early flowering at the end of May meant that the vineyard cycle was three weeks ahead of schedule. April for example was the hottest and driest on record, according to Laurence Faller at Domaine Weinbach. Summer started on a dreadful note, with an infamous hailstorm on June 20 that wreaked havoc on over 4000 acres in five Alsatian communes – some with grand cru vineyards. July and the first three weeks of August were marked by uneven weather, cooler than usual – not one day in August was above 30° C – which may have helped maintain fine acidity levels. The summer weather was welcomed by Riesling which – as Maurice Barthelme of Domaine Albert Mann said, – ‘likes its feet in the water and its head in the sun’… A very fine September and October proved to ripen all three main grapes well, particularly on Alsace’s hotter soils, such as in Rangen and Schlossberg, but with a special mention for the Gewurztraminer, which, as Faller noted, ‘showed particular finesse.’ Was it because the vintage’s acidity balanced the generally rich and spicy grape?  Climactic conditions at the end of the season allowed for the production of late harvest wines – the famous vendages tardives and sélections de grains nobles – although some producers like Trimbach said it was more difficult to make late harvest Riesling, while others, like Albert Mann, had no problems.

Based on early summer 2009 visits, tasting notes are all 2007s unless otherwise noted

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TRIMBACH
Some higher-end Trimbach wines will not be available immediately, as the estate prefers to age these wines in bottle before release.

Pinot Blanc. Good ripeness, about 11.5 to 12 alcohol. No need to chaptalize, Pierre Trimbach said. White peach and pear. 80 percent Auxerrois, 20 percent Pinot Blanc.

Muscat Reserve. Clean grape-like nose. Entered at 10 degrees and lightly chaptalized. Just a bit short on the finish, with a rather viscous palate for a Muscat. For Pierre, Muscat had problems in 2007. He said it is best to harvest at 11 natural degrees, but in 2007, ‘it was more like 10, 10.5.’

Riesling. 11.5/12 alcohol. Lovely saline qualities, with light gun flint, lime and pink grapefruit. A very fine basic Riesling.

Riesling Reserve. Higher alcohol, 12/12.5, made only from vines in Ribeauvillé, coming from cooler soils of marl and limestone, including some from the grand cru vineyard Rosacker. Certainly shows more substance and an amplified expression, perhaps more on the mineral level. Very fine.

Cuvee Frederic Emile. The wine comes from very fine clay and limestone soils around Ribeauvillé with ideal south/southeast exposure. Its nose is marked by reduction, smoke like. Although closed, it shows brooding power and structure in a mineral-infused palate. Promising. 

Clos St. Hune. The top Trimbach brand, made from some 50 hectoliters per hectare from an exceptional terroir in Hunawihr, it features a very substantial and mineral-like palate, with vivid notes of fine tobacco and bright citrus on the nose. More open than the Cuvee Frederic Emile.  ‘Normal,’ Pierre said. ‘The Clos St Hune has a tendency to be open early, but clamps down for a few years.‘

Pinot Gris Reserve. Pinot Gris is generally picked earliest among the three main Alsace grapes. This showed smoky and buttered notes. With 7-8 grams of residual sugar to balance the 14 alcohol, the wine is nicely balanced by the vintage’s acidity.

Pinot Gris Reserve Personnelle. Coming from the deep marl of the Osterberg grand cru, made from grapes almost 100% domain owned, this wine showed pleasing acacia, honey, but without being sweet. At least 12 grams of residual sugar, but so very nicely balanced here.

Gewurztraminer. This wine was made from very ripe grapes: ‘None were less than 14 degrees alcohol,’ remarked Pierre.  With 7-8 grams of residual sugar, the wine exuded clove aromas, subtle and soft, yet with much substance on the palate. A very good basic Gewurztraminer.

Gewurztraminer Reserve. Grapes coming from better terroirs in Ribeauvillé, about 14 alcohol, with a bit more residual sugar. Gingerbread and cinnamon spice on the nose and palate. About 25-30 hectoliters per hectare. ‘Gewurztraminer is not a high-yield grape,’ Trimbach said. ‘Riesling can go up to 70, and still be good.’

Gewurztraminer Cuvee des Seigneurs de Ribeauvillé. From marl and limestone soils taken from selected lieu dits.  Again, about 14 alcohol, with 15-16 grams of residual sugar: not far from 15 potential degrees. Very smoky, spicy and elegant, rich but balanced.

Riesling VT. With 16 potential degrees, actually 13 with about 45grams of residual sugar, this wine was floral, showing fine acidity to balance an evident richness on the palate.

Gewurztraminer VT. Very aromatic, showing mint aspects, but tightly wound on the palate. Some 80 grams of residual sugar.

Gewurztraminer SGN. Some 120 grams of residual sugar. Even more pronounced spice, very bright and elegant, yet evidently opulent.

Pinot Gris SGN. More peach and apricot with a quince jelly freshness, particularly on the nose, this was a very successful SGN given a fine line of vibrancy on the palate. 

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ZIND HUMBRECHT

Pinot d’Alsace. Made from grapes from the gravely soils of Herrenweg and the red limestone of Rotenburg. This wine showed pleasant ripe pear aromas and flavors but somewhat thick for my taste. 13.7 alcohol, 2 grams of residual sugar.

Muscat Goldert. Olivier claimed that the Muscat d’Alsace ripens more slowly, that the German Ottonel variety was developed after the war to ripen more quickly but that global warming is not good for the Ottonel. About 90% Muscat d’Alsace. The Goldert terroir is known for its cooler limestone terroir matched with a cooler climate, ideal for the fast ripening Muscat. Harvest on 7 September.  This wine transcends the grape like aspect: it is very elegant and fresh. Lovely.

Riesling. Made from vines on the gravely soils of Herrenweg, located near the warm village of Turckheim. Some richer limestone vineyards were added to the mix, a 12.6 alcohol, 9 grams of residual sugar wine. Smooth, yet rather lush. A good Riesling on the fat side.

Riesling Turckheim. Made from vineyards planted between 1978 and 1990 in the Brand vineyard (80%) and another younger vineyard planted in 2001 near Jebsal (20%). Mostly gravely soil and some marl, a precocious vineyard, resulting in 13.2 alcohol and 3.5 grams of residual sugar, this wine shows more energy and backbone, with more perceptive dryness. Comes from a more noble terroir and it shows in the glass.

Riesling Gueberschwihr. Closed on the nose and palate, coming from cooler soils (richer and deeper, limestone and siliceous). A serious wine built for aging which should gain in expression in four to five years.

Riesling Clos Windsbuhl. This is more in the style of a Clos St. Hune, dry and crisp, but fine ripeness makes it less the ‘dangerous weapon’ amusingly described in Olivier’s tasting notes. 13.1 alcohol with 1.4 residual sugar. Very fine and streamlined with good backbone.

Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain. Highest elevation in Alsace, with sedimentary volcanic rocks, facing south on a steep slope. Harvested in early October. Has the energy of the above, but much more silky and refined. Smoke and flint aromas, just a bit on the reduced side, but that is normal. 13.5 alcohol and 2 grams of residual sugar. Great stuff. 

Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl. Coming from Humbrecht’s biggest single vineyard, slightly above 6 hectares, old limestone soil. 2007 was a low botrytis vintage for Windsbuhl. Dry and cool conditions stopped noble rot from developing. Very slow motion fermentation, he said – 12 months – and resulting in powerful, high acid mineral like wine. Fine orange rind on the palate. 15.3 alcohol and 9 grams of residual sugar.

Pinot Gris Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain. Not as interesting as the above, I got just a hint of wet dog, but then turning to wet stone, silex. More evident sweetness on the palate.

Gewurztraminer. Confirming the notion that 2007 was particularly kind to this variety, said Olivier: ‘This is the best simple Gewurz I have ever made.’  At 15.4 alcohol and 14 grams of r.s., I found this to be rather balanced, with good spice on the nose and palate, saffron and white pepper. Some 45 hectoliters per hectare.

Gewurztraminer Turckheim. Now this has more residual sugar and it showed a bit for me… At 15.1 and 38 grams, I had an overly sweet sensation but with an expression of beguiling clove. A bit of heat on the finish though.  For those with sweeter tolerances, this may be your Gewurz.

Gewurztraminer Wintzenheim. Much better. With somewhat cooler soils and yet nevertheless grapes picked at maximum ripeness with quite a bit of noble rot. What perhaps gives this wine greater substance is the 50-year age of the vines, double the average of the age at Turckheim. Still along with the 12.8 alcohol (fermentation stopped earlier) the wine contains 61 grams of residual sugar. But the overall effect is less sweet, with more class, exuded in its gingerbread qualities.

Gewurztraminer Herrenweg de Turckheim. The hot gravel and silt soils were ideally suited for this variety, Olivier said. They dealt with the August moisture very well, given good natural drainage, and then ripened the grapes perfectly over the late summer and harvest period. Indeed a thoroughly seductive nose, showing old rose aromas with exotic fruit, and not just litchi. A certain minerality to the palate. At 15.5 and 35 grams of residual sugar, I did detect a bit of heat on the finish however.

Gewurztraminer Heimbourg. One hectare of richer, warmer soil facing west, so perhaps retained more moisture during the wet summer, but for me, this wine seems more balanced than the above – the alcohol is less pronounced and there is a more overall elegant feel, showing floral elements, jasmine. The sunny later period worked wonders, at 14 alcohol and 54 grams of residual sugar, quite well integrated, with noble rot.

Gewurztraminer Clos Windsbuhl. Despite fermenting for about one year, it reached only 12.4 alcohol with 74 grams of residual sugar, but it conveyed balance. The south/southwest facing limestone terrain gives a real freshness to this wine, fine acidity to balance out the residual sugar. Actually rather mineral like on the nose, but time in glass revealed flowery perfume. Very nice Gewurz.

Gewurztraminer Hengst. Apparently one of Olivier’s grandfather’s favorite vineyards, Hengst contains vines averaging 56 years of age. The vines are ideally located in the middle of the grand cru and enjoy a warm climate, so the cooler soils are ideal, maintaining fine acidity. In 2007, the moist cool weather of August certainly maintained acidity, and the grapes then ripened perfectly over the later summer and harvest period, yielding a wine with 15.8 alcohol and 26 grams of residual sugar. Although it does not have more acidity than the preceding wine, it tastes fresher and more balanced. A fabulous nose and palate of rose water, mineral elegance and spice with the sweetness not too evident and the alcohol also not too present either, despite the very high degree.

Gewurztraminer Goldert. Another success but on another scale, showing blood red orange rinds and spice. Another cool soil and terroir, this wine reached 15 degrees and 47 grams of residual sugar. The palate is very rich and seductive.

Gewurztraminer Rangen de Thann Clos St Urbain. The coolest vineyard – budbreak and flowering almost always two weeks later than most of the other vineyards. Sedimentary volcanic rocks on a steep southern exposed slope. Very smoke and flint on the nose. A wine that transcends the varietal character. Hefty alcohol at 16.4 with 22 grams of residual sugar. Botrytis gives the wine an added spice dimension. Rather closed at this stage but the richness is very evident.

Riesling SGN 2006. 185 grams of residual sugar. Very precise, with notes of gunflint. Deliciously seductive. You take one mineral infused sweet – yes – sip, but you want another. Open for four days and very fresh tasting. Like a sweet apple.

Clos Windsbuhl Pinot Gris SGN 2005. Three and one half years in barrel. A special selection with 300 Oechsle. 7% alcohol and … 350 grams of residual sugar. Bottled in February 2009. Gingerbread, citrus, honey and cinnamon. Super rich. Not really heavy but highly viscous, for sugar lovers.

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ALBERT MANN

Pinot Noir Clos de la Faille. Vines planted in 1997, on an extension of the Hengst vineyard. Aged in 30 percent new oak. Decent fruit. The nose is fine and the palate unsurprising. Shows a hint of alcohol. 13 alcohol. This is certainly OK.

Pinot Noir Grand H. A non grand cru grape grown on a grand cru terroir. About one acre of vines planted back in 1975. 50 percent new oak, and the taste here is just a bit reduced. There is greater sap on the palate, which is medium- to full-bodied, although again I perceive a bit too much alcohol on the palate.

Pinot Noir Grand P. Same notion, though the Pfersigberg vineyard. Made from less than half an acre of vines, this wine is sold at Auberge de l’Ill, the famous three-star restaurant, and I understand why. A nice nose of distinct cherry notes, very pretty and rather substantial on the palate – this is getting close to fine Burgundy. A delicate profile, although with some rich tar notes as well. The best Alsatian Pinot Noir I can remember trying.

Pinot Blanc Auxerrois. In the last four years this wine has been under screwcap. Sold in many US restaurants, and buyers love screwcaps for this market – no returned corked bottles… Light and fresh, a pure expression at 12 alcohol.

Auxerrois Vieilles Vignes. Pure Auxerrois, rounder and more supple than the above. Estate co-owner Maurice Barthelme says that this variety comes from Luxembourg and is not necessarily a cousin of Chardonnay – he says that it is most vulnerable to the eventual effects of global warming. Certainly ‘Chardonnay friendly,’ with a creamy nose, and showing good palate presence, at 12.5 with 8 grams of well integrated residual sugar.

Riesling Cuvée Albert. A non grand cru Riesling but made from 30-year-old vines. Generally speaking Maurice said that 06-07-08 are ‘three great Riesling vintages.’ This 2007 shows a nice petrol like nose, subtle, with hints of tropical fruit, mango. 13 alcohol with 5 grams of residual sugar, this wine underwent malolactic fermentation, which added some richness to its Chablis like profile.

Riesling Rosenberg. This shows far more immediate appeal: lemon and pink grapefruit. Rather flashy style, and utterly delicious. 12.5 with 25 grams of residual sugar, but very well integrated.

Riesling Schlossberg Grand Cru. It also underwent malolactic fermentation. From the granite soils, very Chablis like, very focused but indeed softened by the malolactic. A very pretty nose of herbal tea and gunflint. 13.5 alcohol with less than 2 grams of residual sugar, this wine has fine acidity.

Riesling Furstentum Grand Cru. This was harvested two weeks later, a much cooler soil of limestone, marl and red sandstone (the pink gré de Vosges). A spicier profile here, with lovely orange notes, although a tad hot on the palate. 13 alcohol and 25 grams of residual sugar.

Riesling Schlossberg Grand Cru Late Harvest (Vendanges Tardives). This was absolutely delicious, very tobacco infused and bright, with a dry finish despite the 60 grams of residual sugar. Very impressive.

Riesling Schlossberg Grand Cru SGN. This bottle was open for three days, and proved very fresh tasting with notes of fresh mandarin and citron confît. A whopping 137 grams of residual sugar extremely well integrated 12 alcohol.

Riesling Schlossberg Grand Cru Epicentre. From vines in the heart of the vineyard, very white flower profile, elderberry, herbal tea, and smooth but for some reason – at least for me – the least interesting of the three late harvest Schlossberg Rieslings tasted.

To take a break, Maurice cracked open his Crémant d’Alsace, made from Auxerrois and Pinot Blanc. My goodness what a great crémant! This puts some Champagne to shame. Nice chalky nose, fresh with lime zest, and a most agreeable fresh/dry aspect. Seek this out.

Pinot Gris Cuvée Albert. This is ok. It has dryness to match the somewhat sticky peach feel. Maurice calls it a substitute for Chardonnay without the oak. Perhaps. 13.5 and 15 grams of residual sugar.

Pinot Gris Furstentum Grand Cru. The cool soils of this grand cru are better adapted to this quickly ripening grape.  This certainly shows more breed, better texture, with 14 alcohol and 26 grams of residual sugar.

Pinot Gris Hengst Grand Cru. A bit more mineral, more tannic – and the best of the bunch. Fine flavors of acacia, silex, with 13.5 and 26 grams of residual sugar. High acidity nicely balances this wine.

Gewurztraminer. The basic blend, and a real success. Rose with clove spice. Nicely dry feel. 20 grams of residual sugar. Again proof positive of Gewurztraminer’s general success in 2007.

Gewurztraminer Furstentum Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes (Old vines). Made from 50+ old vines, this is a very complex expression of the variety, with rose, sandal wood, exotic fruit and lily of the valley. Soft expression, really, rather subtle. A very fine job.

Gewurztraminer Altenbourg Vendanges Tardives (late harvest). Aspect of pear, peach and soft spice. 13.5 alcohol.

Gewurztraminer Furstentum Grand Cru SGN. Vines planted between 1930 and 1950, made from carefully selected massale grapes, 11.5 alcohol. Like a fine Cuban cigar, with sweetness… Complex and rich, showing blood red orange, raspberry and mineral like licorice.

Pinot Gris “Le Tri” Altenbourg. A truly special wine, aged in 100% new oak, showing tobacco leaf and nougat, as well as apricot and fig. Not too viscous, but certainly rich, with 237 grams of residual sugar and 9.5 alcohol. A tour de force. 

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WEINBACH

Sylvaner Reserve. Fresh and elegant, at 13 alcohol and 3 grams of residual sugar. 

Pinot Blanc Reserve. Lovely mix of peach and pear on the nose and palate, which is at once rather lush and nicely fresh, with good acidity. 13.5 alcohol.

Muscat. Always a top Muscat in Alsace, the Weinbach is once again subtle and sumptuous. Certainly nice grape aromas – as expected – but also nuanced notes of white peach with floral elements.

Riesling Cuvee Théo. Made from older vines in the Clos vineyard, it had a slightly reticent nose of grapefruit  and a straightforward and rich palate, at 13 alcohol and 4.5 grams of residual sugar.

Riesling Schlossberg Grand Cru. Made from plots at the top of the grand cru Schlossberg, totally unaffected by the hail, this wine was tighter, showing very fine aromas and flavors of mineral, stone and intriguing mahogany and featuring a slightly closed yet very smooth palate, with well integrated 5 grams of residual sugar.

Riesling Cuvée St Catherine. Made from the lower part of the grand cru Schlossberg slope, with part of this vineyard (20 percent) lying outside the grand cru border, this wine showed just a bit of reduction but with very elegant orange notes, lightly spiced with also herbal tea: all in all very subtle and refined, nearly delicate, but very precise.

Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg Cuvee St Catherine. Made from 65-year-old vines, from choice mid slope plots, this wine is much larger scaled but just as elegant. Very mineral focus with licorice, notes of wet stone and gunflint as it sits in the glass. The finish has a nice mango flavored lift. 6.1 grams of residual sugar.

Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg Cuvee St Catherine L’Inedit. Produced in 1998 for the first time, coming from richer parts of the same above vineyard, with Riesling reaching exceptional maturity. About 22.5 grams of residual sugar, this wine was rather closed for the tasting. More on a mineral scale than fruit scale, showing elegance on the palate, and a broader texture, but not particularly expressive at this stage.

Pinot Gris Cuvee St Catherine. At 15 alcohol and 12 grams of residual sugar, this was very likely the top Pinot Gris I tasted in its class: not at all hot, with ripe yellow peach flavors and a sumptuous not sticky palate. Made from grapes grown in the Clos and lower part of the Schlossberg slope

Pinot Gris Cuvee Laurence. Made from grapes grown on the limestone clay soils below the Altenbourg vineyard, this wine shows a clear botrytis spice along with expressive orange aromas and flavors, all very elegant and refined. A full bodied wine, rich, yet very fresh – a mark of the vintage. 15 alcohol with 20 grams of residual sugar.

Pinot Gris Altenbourg. Coming from the Altenbourg vineyard, directly beneath Furstentum, this wine showed fresh fruit, white pear and sesame notes, with a notable freshness to match its 22 grams of residual sugar. A fabulous bottling.

Gewurztraminer Cuvée Theo. Perfect balance here of very aromatic spice and fruit, a streamlined palate exuding elegance, richness and freshness. 14 alcohol.

Gewurztraminer Cuvee Laurence. Again from the clay limestone plots below Altenbourg. A more serious nose, with rose and jasmine and acacia. The palate is rich coming from 14 alcohol and 32 grams of residual sugar. I found just a bit of heat on the back end.

Gewurztraminer Cuvee Laurence Altenbourg. From the vineyard bearing the same name, this was more complete, better integration of all the elements (45 grams of residual sugar, 14 alcohol), showing crème brulée, spice and orange notes. Delicious.

Gewurztraminer Furstentum Grand Cru. This terroir develops very good botrytis, and this year was no exception, showing fine spice notes, along with slightly reduced notes of tobacco and smoke. The palate is very rich, yet velvety, a good balance between the 55 grams of residual sugar and the brisk acidity of the vintage. Overall showing a more flinty mineral profile at this stage.

Riesling Schlossberg Late Harvest (Vendanges Tardives) 2006. Coming from the mid-slope section with great natural drainage and shows that 2006 can be a very good vintage when coming from the right terroir. A very creamy, fruit-driven character, rich and suave and basically delicious.

Gewurztraminer Schlossberg Vendanges Tardives 2005. Very open and rich, with red grapefruit flavors. Just lovely.

Riesling Schlossberg SGN 2006. 10.5 alcohol and 120 grams of residual sugar. Very precise, yet rather understated. There is a subdued elegance to this admittedly hearty wine. Certainly rich, like an SGN should be, but very subtle and fine.

Quintessence Cuvé d’Or Gewurztraminer Mambourg 2006. 11.5 alcohol and 160 grams of residual sugar. Spice, cinnamon, very elegant and rich, showing more botrytis spice and opulence than the above, much more on display with a grapefruit and apricot driven palate. Only 250 liters produced, and good to the last drop.

 

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JEAN BAPTISTE ADAM

Riesling Reserve. Nose just a bit hollow, but for the price (€6.40 ex domain), quite decent. The palate is better, displays freshness and substance, although not exciting. 12 degrees alcohol with 5 grams of residual sugar, Jean Baptiste prefers the higher acidity of the 2008s.

Riesling Letzenberg. Made from domain owned vines – just about 9 acres – this has a soft mint like nose, with good palate presence, lacking the airy elegance of, say, a Weinbach, a bit more obvious, but a fine buy – US retail about $20, he said.

Riesling Kaefferkopf VV (old vine). A superior bottle for a few dollars more, this shows again very mint like aromas, with some gunflint on the palate as well, and a far more substantial palate. There is perhaps evident richness coming from the 8 grams or residual sugar, but rather fine. Nice job.

Pinot Gris Reserve. This is a fine bottle of Pinot, showing less annoying stickiness which one can get from non domain wines, with fine acidity – a mark of the vintage. Certainly lacks the complexity of finer estate wines, but not bad.

Pinot Gris Cuvee Jean Baptiste. This is a bottle to seek out, costing less than $20 retail, it displays a subtle nose of fruit, with an exuberant palate: fresh and rich, with good energy throughout. 13.5 alcohol and 18 grams of residual sugar, nicely integrated. Bravo.

Pinot Gris Letzenberg. Although this is made exclusively from estate vineyards, I am less excited here. The 45 grams of residual sugar are too much in evidence, with cloying pineapple notes. The nose is, again, rather minty, fresh but it does not deliver on the palate. Only 1,800 bottles!

Kaefferkopf ‘Grand Cru’ Cuvee Traditionnelle. Sold at many an Alsatian winstub, Jean Baptiste said, this wine – famously a blend of grapes – fits in that context, and is quite enjoyable. Jean Baptiste said that it would be difficult to sell in the US, but the price may be right, about $20 retail.  A rather Gewurztraminer nose – with rose notes – then a good Riesling like spine with substance on the palate. 13 alcohol and about 30 grams of residual sugar, well integrated.

Gewurztraminer Reserve. At €8.40 ex domain, this wine proves again how this grape did well in 2007. A soft, not very expressive nose, but the palate is fresh and agreeable, even exuberant, with nice spice notes. 13 alcohol with 27 grams of residual sugar. Nice job.

Gewurztraminer Kaefferkopf VV (old vines). Among the most expensive wines sold ex domain (€16.50), this wine has a subtle nose, with spice and fruit followed by a very lovely palate, elegant, with good acidity – although just a tad hot on the finish? 13.6 alcohol with 35 grams of residual sugar. But a nice overall feel.

* = Sale Price, no further discount