The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques (Domaine Louis Jadot) unfurls in the glass with an incipiently complex bouquet of sweet red berries, coffee roast, raw cocoa, candied peel and cedary new wood. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and layered, with an abundance of satiny structuring tannin, juicy acids and a long, pure finish. As usual, this will require some bottle age, but it's one of the high points of the collection.