Antoniolo's 2015 Gattinara Riserva Le Castelle is laced with black cherry, plum, leather, spice, tobacco and incense, all of which bring out darker tonalities of Nebbiolo that hold considerable allure. The 2015 is deep and virile in style, and yet relatively soft contours (for a young Gattinara) give it quite a bit of appeal even in the early going.