The 2019 Baudoin is a Vin de France only because of the inflexibility of French wine law meaning that the grapes from their Vouvray vineyards can't be vinified outside the appellation's boundary at Chidaine's nearby cellar in Montlouis. Despite the regulations, this is a gorgeous, soothing wine that feels both unforced yet refined with its silken texture. The fruit from this steep, walled vineyard is pure, expressing florals and white nectarine flesh, lime and a background note of almond croissant (maybe that's the fermentation in 620-liter barrels.) While it blossoms in the mouth, expanding its purity to all corners, it sucks in on the finish - like a curvy lady putting on a pair of figure-hugging knickers. The taut and almost salty conclusion suggests that this might need a couple of years in bottle to truly get going. Despite the warm, dry season, this maintains a great deal of freshness and precision with refined acidity. Long, satisfying and the wine equivalent of chicken soup for the soul.

Rebecca Gibb MW - Vinous Media (93)