A low-priced take on an indigenous Piedmont grape called Cortese, the Coppo 2020 Gavi Tenuta la Rocca shows a citrusy note on first inspection that softens slowly to include some bitter almond, pear and minty apple. This is a fresh and zippy white wine (closed in a screw-capped bottle) to enjoy with an easy salad lunch on a patio or sunny terrace.