Pol Roger's 2012 Brut Blanc de Blancs is excellent, offering up aromas of crisp green apple, freshly baked bread, white flowers and blanched almonds. Medium to full-bodied, pillowy and precise, with fine depth at the core, racy acids and a pinpoint mousse, it has shed some of the smoky, gently reductive top notes it displayed two years ago, but equally it hasn't yet arrived at its mature aromatic register?so I'd be inclined to cellar bottles for a few years before revisiting this.