The 2020 Beaune 1er Cru Grèves (Domaine Gagey) is especially successful this year, wafting from the glass with aromas of dark berry fruit, orange rind, peonies and rich spices. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it's deep and serious, with ripe tannins and lively acids. While it's appropriately youthfully structured, it doesn't display any of the austerity one sometimes finds in this particular bottling.