The 2017 Chianti Classico is a dark, brooding wine. Swaths of tannin wrap around a core of dark fruit as this imposing Chianti Classico makes its presence felt. The 2017 is a wine of real stature that demands attention. Licorice, smoke, gravel, cured meats and tobacco add complexity with time in the glass. Readers will have to be patient with the 2017. It is one of the most potent wines in its peer group. Even so, it is incredibly beautiful and expressive today.