The 2010 Dom Ruinart is truly epic. It’s also an eye-opening wine. And I do mean wine. Because the first impression is really of wine more than Champagne. The 2010 signals a major shift in philosophy, as Dom Ruinart is now aged entirely under cork (rather than crown seal) as it was back in the early 1960s. Lemon peel, white flowers, mint, crushed rocks and white pepper all race across the palate, announcing a Champagne of stature, breed and pure class. All the elements build as the 2010 crescendos into its intensely saline, mineral-drenched finish. The low dosage of 4 grams per liter is perfectly judged. I try to avoid the tired clichés that make comparisons with Burgundy, but it is impossible here. The best way I can describe the 2010 Dom Ruinart is that it tastes like a great Corton-Charlemagne with bubbles. Chef de Caves Frédéric Panaïotis has poured his heart and soul into Ruinart since arriving in 2007. He richly deserves all the accolades he will surely garner for this masterpiece, an achievement that is made all the more notable by the challenges of the growing season. The 2010 Dom Ruinart is unreal. That’s all there is to it. Disgorged: 2020.