There is considerable fermentative “Mosel stink” on the nose that only gradually lifts enough to reveal site-typical apple wreathed in honeysuckle and heliotrope. Perhaps not coincidentally, while picked at around the same 90 Oechsle as the other site-specific Haag Kabinetts of the vintage, this one exhibits the most striking sense of delicacy. “It may be,” Haag suggested, “that this is a Kabinett for the real Mosel Riesling freaks.” It’s also one for fans with patience. The feel here is subtly creamy and the long finish clears nicely to feature persistent inner-mouth floral perfume and stony underpinnings as well as succulent fruit reinforced by high but remarkably unobtrusive residual sugar.