Beams of minerality and salinity cut through a core of dense, dark fruit in the 2014 Barbaresco Riserva Paj?. Deeply pitched and tannic, the 2014 is a super-classic, youthfully austere Barbaresco that is going to need time to be at its best. Readers should expect a firm, structured Barbaresco. The finish alone is striking. Crushed rocks, minerals, sage and lavender add nuance to this chiseled, finely sculpted Barbaresco. Readers who can find it should not hesitate.