Barbara ?hlzelt is turning the region's paradigm completely on its head. Instead of the unctuous, powerful and masculine wines of the famous large estates, Barbara's wines emphasize focus and a quiet, simmering intensity. They are fine, clearly delineated, precisely-etched renditions of Gru¨ner Veltliner and Riesling with just as much depth and persistence as the big boys, but on a lighter, more refreshing frame.- loess, granite and sandstone, rather than slate. It should go without saying, but of course the wines are loaded with mouth-watering acidity and the alcohol levels are carefully restrained. These are racy, delicate wines of purity and energy, and are exactly what the next chapter in the story of Austrian wine should be. The Gr?ner Leader is from a combination of all of Barbara's Gr?ner vineyards with an average vine age of 30 years.