don't know how you feel, but the Beaujolais from stars like the Gang of Four evoke a certain carefreeness in me. One single sip transports me to a courtyard in Villi?-Morgon, uncorking bottle after bottle, getting tipsier than intended. Then there are the Beaujolais from Chignard and Diochon that always make me stand a little taller, study my glass a little longer, and recall that structured Gamay is not an oxymoron. But the perfectly simple village rouge of Domaine Dupeuble, which joyfully toes the line between these two styles, offers the charm and drinkability of the most effusive Morgons with the class and frankness of a chiseled Moulin-?-Vent. To navigate that sweet spot between the two, Ghislaine Dupeuble vinifies without the least bit of sulfur until bottling, in thick slabs of cement vats that keep the fruit fresh and crunchy. But don't take my word for it, as KLWM isn't the only one to hold this estate in high esteem. Last year, Ghislaine became one of the youngest people in history?and one of very few women?to receive the prestigious Chevalier de l'Ordre du M?rite Agricole. Awarded by the French ministre d'agriculture to the likes of Jacques P?pin, Yann Arthus-Bertrand, Louis Pasteur, and even Kermit Lynch himself, the medal recognizes those who have made and continue to make a significant impact preserving France and its agricultural resources. The award is a particular honor and accomplishment after only 20 years since joining the family's 500-year-old estate. Ghislaine, however, graciously accepts without any ego. She insists the passion and savoir-faire of her late parents, Damien and Dani?le, laid the groundwork for her success. If that's the case, let's raise a glass of Dupeuble rouge in her parents' honor, and cheers to Ghislaine's very first vintage as a Chevali?re?or whatever the French word is for a female knight. ?Jane Berg