This originates from a steeper, stonier site on more meager soil than do the Loewens' ?1896? bottlings, though with vines that are only a few years younger. It exhibits a more seamless personality than does this year's legally dry ?1896,? as well as a texture that is even more flatteringly silken, and its fullness is attended by no alcoholic heat. White peach is tinged with mint on the nose and the succulently fruited, coolingly herb-inflected palate. The finish proves admirably transparent to stony underpinnings, subtly enlivened by pit piquancy and possessed of mouthwatering salinity; nor does it forget Riesling's fundamental duty to refresh. (For more on this site and these vines, consult my reviews of the corresponding 2014 and 2015.)