It has a beautifully defined bouquet of pure raspberry preserve, cranberry and floral scents that unfurl in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a citrus-fresh opening and marmalade and tangerine notes infusing the red fruit. The pretty, very expressive finish maybe just misses the depth of, say, the 2016. Still, this is a lovely wine.

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes soars from the glass with a rich bouquet of cassis, plums and dark berries mingled with notes of rose petal, loamy soil and grilled meats. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, velvety and sapid, with fine concentration, ripe tannins and an expansive finish. Broader and more muscular by comparison with the finer-boned, more incisive Evocelles, this is a classic expression of Gevrey-Chambertin.