Unwinding in the glass with aromas of pear, orange oil, freshly baked bread, peach, smoke and spices, the 2020 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is full-bodied, satiny and layered, with terrific old-vine concentration, racy acids and chalky dry extract. Deep, multidimensional and structured, it will reward a bit of patience.