The Tenuta di Castellaro 2017 Malvasia delle Lipari Passito (in a 375-milliliter bottle) draws its fruit from the Vigna Cappero ("the caper vineyard") on the southeast side of Lipari that faces the island of Vulcano and has beautiful views of the sea and the archipelago. The vines are all planted in the bush-trained alberello system. This wine opens to bright orange or amber color and follows through with aromas of candied fruit, canned peach, pineapple and exotic fruit. Those aromas bring a lot of volume and intensity to this medium-weight Sicilian dessert wine made with air-dried grapes. The blend is 95% Malvasia delle Lipari and 5% Corinto Nero, and only 4,000 bottles were made.

Monica Larner - Wine Advocate (93)