The 2007 Dom Ruinart Rosé is showing brilliantly, bursting from the glass with exuberant aromas of blood orange, tangerine and raspberries, mingled with hints of buttered toast, brioche and spices. Full-bodied, deep and vinous, it's layered and elegantly muscular, with terrific concentration and a racy spine of acidity, enlivened by a pillowy mousse. Concluding with a long and sapid finish, it's aromatically open but structurally tightly wound, so I suspect it will reward another few years' age on cork, even if it's hard to resist today. In any case, it deserves to participate in any discussion of the 2007 Champagne vintage's high points