90-year-old vines on typically volcanic soils. Handled in large format oak, rather than the steel tanks of other properties. This confers a dried straw quality, not dissimilar to the scents of freshly laid tatami mat. Glazed quince, white pepper, jasmine and crystalline ginger, to boot. Wonderful intensity and spread of fruit, with the low sulphur regime playing a trump card of mellifluous drinkability. Drink or hold.

James Suckling - James Suckling (94)