Crushed rocks, rose petals and dried strawberries form a dusty and darkly alluring bouquet as the 2017 Etna Rosso Riserva Serra della Contessa Particella No. 587 grumbles up from the glass. It's silky-smooth and elegant in style. Polished red fruits and mineral tones add traction under an air of violet inner florals. Hints of sour citrus combine with a bump of residual acidity to add balance, even as grippy tannins clamp down hard through the long and structured finale. Today, the 2017 is primary, yet its potential is very high.