The 2022 Chablis Les Séchets 1er Cru comes from 90-year-old vines raised in stainless steel (no barrels) for 18 months. No amount of swirling seems to rectify the austere nose. This is very backward, stubborn even. The well-balanced palate is taut and fresh, citric and tensile, with a crisp line of acidity and a steely and, to use that word again, penetrating finish. Impressive and yet uncompromising at the moment.