The 2017 Aglianico del Vulture is dark and brooding, slowly evolving in the glass with a complex blend of musty black currants, dried cherries, cinnamon, cloves and a dusting of cocoa. This is racy and sleek with depths of ripe red berry fruit. Saline minerals further enhance its grippy tension. Finishing dramatically long and staining, it’s actually not aggressively tannic. Instead, the 2017 maintains its grip through a lingering concentration as hints of mocha and licorice fade. This is maturing beautifully and, if paired with the right cuisine, can already deliver gobs of pleasure.