The 2021 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggiale is a dense, potent offering from Castellare. Black cherry, licorice, new leather, spice and dried flowers emerge from the glass. These 40-plus-year-old vines yield an especially muscular, virile Riserva. The 2021 spent 20 months in French oak, one-third new and two-thirds used, an approach that works so well for this bottling.