The 2022 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru has a pixelated bouquet with that mélange of red and black fruit that I noticed before. It's perfumed with hints of potpourri and lovely sous-bois/mossy scents in the background. The palate is medium-bodied, with a little crunch on the entry. It's a more structured Champans than I am accustomed to; perhaps the tannins are a bit rmer and less silky in texture at the moment. This will need more time to knit together than d'Angerville's other cuvées.

Neal Martin - Vinous Media (94)