Produced with white grapes from the same old vineyard as the Procura Tinto, the Procura Branco is a wine they have produced since 2013. Susana Esteban wanted to produce a white that would age for a very long time in bottle and thought it could be done with this vineyard. The 2021 Procura Branco has a perfumed nose of flowers, wild herbs and spice—it smells like the vineyard, she told me—I visited it in the winter. It fermented in stainless steel and matured in used Burgundian barrels, the same nine barrels, year after year. It has an elegant profile but with concentration and power, good ripeness, 13.2% alcohol and a very low pH (3.2), which denotes freshness. It’s balanced, with power and elegance. Bottling always happens before the following harvest, so they can reuse the barrels. I tasted the 2013, the first vintage, and the wine has a different aromatic profile—more nuanced and tertiary but with citrus freshness and the granularity of the granite still going strong. 2,626 bottles produced. It was bottled in August 20222,