Another great, great Lauer Kupp Kabi; soaring citrus and stone fruit, a muscular ten grams of acidity slicing open the wine to reveal a super-polished mineral core, salty like an ocean breeze. This is the Saar at its best.
-Importer notes (Vom Boden)
From several vineyards on loess soils in Siebeldingen and Godramstein, the 2021 Weisser Burgunder trocken shows a pure, fresh and lemony as well as herbal bouquet with delicate yeasty notes. Round, lush and elegant on the palate, this is a textured, finel...
Note this is the single 2022 offering in our release of the 2023 vintage. Most estates, including Lauer, hold back quantities of certain wines for fun, for a rainy day, or because they just feel like the wine needs more time. In the case of this wine, it was held back for all of these reasons. A small tranche is being released to us now simply to fill up this offer a bit. Feel free to review my thoughts on Lauer’s 2022ers, readable here. I *love* them.
Since 2022, the VDP has classified Ayler Scheidterberg as a Erste Lage or “Premier Cru”. This site is very sheltered southern exposure that allows a slow and long ripening deep into autumn. Stony-fresh and dense core that is remarkably playful and relatively open in it’s youth.
Beautifully complex cuvée with red fruit aromas, crafted with a small portion of Pinot Noir wine which imparts a subtle salmon tinge.
German wine fans should expect to see more of these “1G” wines going forward. Essentially a “Premier Cru” wine, these can be made from either single-vineyard, “premier cru-designated” sites or, as Lauer does, a blend of premier cru-designated sites from a village. This wine is sourced from top parcels in and around Ayl; in essence a “baby GG” the wine has all the density and texture you’d expect from a top Lauer wine.
The same culture, the same fashion and vogue, that has given us treasures like ultra-processed food, congress, social media, and paddle ball is also pushing against wines like Spätlese. Honestly, fuck fashion and vogue. Spätlese as an act of social rebellion? Yes. This is so damn crisp it’ll shut the haters up – just under seventy grams of beautiful, beautiful fructose (that’s less than many Kabinett) and damn near 10 grams of acid to make your palate reverberate.
“Barrel X” is winemaker Florian Lauer’s Platonic ideal of what a slightly off-dry (feinherb) Saar Riesling should be. If we were in Burgundy, this would be the equivalent of a “Bourgogne Blanc.” As an appellation-level wine, it is sourced from multiple vineyards in four different villages of the Saar: Ayl (Lauer’s home village), Saarburg, Wawern and Wiltingen. Florian says, “From Ayl and Wawern, the wine gains the fruit and power, from Saarburg the racy acidity, and from Wiltingen, the spice.”
Regardless of what comes from where, this much is certain: dollar for dollar, I’m not sure there is a 750ml bottle that delivers as much joy and zing. This is the gateway drug to Lauer, to the Saar, to Riesling… be careful. Very addictive.
While everyone yanks the wheel to the right, doing ever-more dry wines, Lauer holds his own course, providing for us new treasures for our campaign: “Spätlese is the new Kabinett.” Some say Spätlese is the heart of the vintage; I’m not 100% sure but this is delicious, light and zingy and refreshing. Dinner Spätlese – not for dessert.