2004 D'Oliveiras - Madeira Verdelho Colheita (750ml)

Pereira D’Oliveira has been making Madeira in Funchal since 1850, and the family still runs the house today. Its cellars hold one of the island’s best collections of single-vintage wines, aged slowly in old oak and bottled only when they’re ready. Verdelho is the medium-dry style, a touch richer than Sercial but still driven by Madeira’s racy acidity. This 2004 is amber with a gold edge. The nose shows dried tropical fruit, persimmon, orange peel and toasted nuts, with that savory, nutty rancio note that comes with age. The palate is velvety and gently plush, then sharpened by bright citrus acidity into a long, delicate finish. Great as an aperitif, or with mushroom dishes, smoked fish or hard cheeses. It keeps for months once opened.