Tesseron X.O. Lot 90 (Ovation) Cognac 750ml

Cognac Tesseron traces back to 1905, when Abel Tesseron founded the house in Châteauneuf-sur-Charente, patiently building reserves of eaux-de-vie in a twelfth century crypt beneath the family property and selling much of it to larger cognac houses for decades. It wasn't until 2003 that the family, led by Alfred Tesseron, began bottling under its own name, carrying forward a philosophy summed up in the house's own slogan: XO and beyond, meaning nothing younger ever leaves the estate.

Lot 90 Ovation is distilled from Ugni Blanc, along with the rarer Folle Blanche and Colombard varieties the Tesserons continue to cultivate, sourced from three crus: Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, and Fins Bois. The wine is fermented to a light, acidic base before double distillation in copper pot stills fired by open flame, with only the purified heart of the run selected for aging. The eaux-de-vie then mature a minimum of ten years in old French oak, developing richness without excessive wood tannin.

The color is an attractive golden hue. On the nose, fresh pear and quince open first, giving way to herbaceous notes, dried fruit, and a hint of almond. The palate is firm and focused, echoing that same fruit and nut character with a touch of spice, finishing with good structure and length. It is well suited to sipping neat in a tulip glass, though the house also recommends serving it over ice to bring out its vibrancy.