2023 Lioco - Chardonnay Sonoma County (750ml)

Lioco was founded by Matt and Sara Licklider, who for the past fifteen years have been leading voices in the New California wine movement. Their approach favors minimalist labeling and a serious focus on site, working with a network of dry-farmed, organic vineyards across Sonoma County and prioritizing old-vine fruit. Rather than sourcing from a single estate, Lioco blends multiple ranches within the Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast corridor to build a wine that reflects the region as a whole.

The 2023 vintage marked a return to classic California conditions after several drought years, with a wet spring, a healthy crop, and grapes hand-picked in early to mid-October. Fruit was crushed by foot tread rather than mechanically, then pressed into stainless steel for fermentation and six months of aging with no barrel component and no battonage, a choice that preserves the wine's linear, mineral-driven character. The extended hang time gave the grapes unusual aromatic intensity for the vintage.

The wine is pale straw with a green tinge, opening with lemon blossom, orchard fruit, and crushed stone on the nose. The palate is taut and mouthwatering, showing pomelo, white tea, and a saline minerality reminiscent of Chablis, carried by crisp acidity to a clean, lingering finish. Its bright structure suits fried fish sandwiches, fresh oysters, or a simple roast chicken.