2023 Michel Niellon - Chassagne Montrachet Clos St. Jean (750ml)

Domaine Michel Niellon has been a fixture in Chassagne-Montrachet for four generations, prized for picking earlier than almost anyone else in the village to preserve freshness. The estate keeps yields low and favors old vines, a combination that gives its wines an intricate, textured character. Its most celebrated holding is a tiny parcel of Chevalier-Montrachet, which Michel himself planted by hand in 1970.

Clos Saint-Jean comes from a small parcel of just over half a hectare on high ground near an old quarry, on the border with the Rebichets climat. Fermentation begins in stainless steel before the wine is moved to oak for malolactic conversion and aging, with roughly a third new barrels and no batonnage, letting the site's natural richness build through time on the lees rather than stirring.

The nose is fine and precise, with white peach, citrus lemon and crushed stone lending a touch of Puligny-like character. The palate has a fine thread of acidity, tensile and mineral driven, with an unusual hint of popcorn appearing on the saline finish. Serve it with grilled prawns, roast veal, or a young sheep's-milk cheese.