2017 Cantina della Volta - Lambrusco Brut Rosso (750ml)

Cantina della Volta is based in Modena, in Italy's Emilia-Romagna, where fourth-generation winemaker Christian Bellei has built on his father's early experiments with turning Lambrusco into a proper bottle-fermented sparkling wine. Working alongside partners Angela Sini and Giorgio Angiolini, Bellei applies the Champagne method, or metodo classico, across the estate's Lambrusco and organic Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The house specializes almost exclusively in Lambrusco di Sorbara, the lightest and most delicate of the region's Lambrusco grapes, treating it with the rigor usually reserved for fine Champagne.

BrutRosso comes from 100% Lambrusco di Sorbara, harvested in the first week of October from vines around Modena. After the classic method's secondary fermentation in bottle, the wine rests on its lees for a minimum of 22 months before disgorgement, then receives a small dosage of about 5.5 grams per liter, keeping it firmly in brut territory. The result is a fully sparkling red at around 12.5 percent alcohol, dry and structured despite its playful pink hue and fine, persistent bubbles.

The 2017 shows bright strawberry and red cherry fruit with notes of cranberry, orange zest, and rose petal, along with a touch of sweet spice on the finish. The perlage is fine and lively, carrying real depth and a dry, savory edge through a long finish. Serve it slightly chilled alongside cured salumi, a simple pizza, or spicier dishes that call for a wine with some fizz and grip.