2023 Raymond Usseglio - Chateauneuf du Pape Girard (750ml)

Domaine Raymond Usseglio & Fils is a family estate in Châteauneuf-du-Pape now run by Stéphane Usseglio, son of Raymond, who continues to farm the domaine's eighteen hectares of vines with a focus on old-vine quality. Half the estate's holdings sit in the celebrated La Crau vineyard, with the remainder planted near the ruins of the pope's ancient castle, and many of the vines average fifty to sixty years of age, with some plots considerably older. The estate has built a reputation as one of the appellation's most consistent producers, and the Girard bottling is made exclusively for a single American importer.

The Girard cuvée leans predominantly on Grenache, filled out with Mourvèdre and small portions of Counoise and Cinsault, planted across a mix of sandy and rocky galet soils typical of the appellation. The grapes are partially destemmed before fermentation, and the wine is aged for around eighteen months, primarily in concrete tanks with smaller portions resting in demi-muids and barrels, a method that preserves freshness while allowing gradual development. Production is limited, with roughly five hundred cases made in a given vintage.

The 2023 shows an exotic lift of florals and violets alongside red and black fruits, blood orange, licorice, dried herbs, and white pepper, finishing smooth and refined with ripe, well-integrated tannins. It has the structure to age gracefully over the next decade, though it drinks beautifully now alongside braised lamb, duck confit, or a well-aged hard cheese.