2016 Domaine Bourdy - Chateau-Chalon (620ml)

Domaine Jean Bourdy is based in Arlay, in the Jura, and was established sometime between 1475 and 1500, making it one of the region's oldest family estates. Today brothers Jean-Philippe and Jean-François Bourdy, the 15th generation, farm 10 hectares biodynamically and make wine the old-fashioned way, including from a half hectare in the Château-Chalon appellation.

Château-Chalon is a rocky hillside where only Savagnin is permitted, and a commission inspects the vineyards a week before picking to decide whether the harvest qualifies. The wine ages in old oak barrels that are never topped up, allowing a veil of yeast to form on the surface. By regulation, it rests for at least six years and three months before release, so this 2016 is a young example of the style. It is bottled in the traditional 62 centiliter clavelin.

Deep gold in color, it offers walnut, warm spice, ripe yellow fruit, and citrus zest. The dry palate is rich and nutty, with a pronounced oxidative character woven into the fruit and elegant acidity that carries through a long, persistent finish.