Izumibashi Kurotonbo Kimoto Black Dragonfly Junmai (720ml)

Izumibashi Shuzo has been brewing in Kanagawa Prefecture since 1857, and the brewery's name reflects its roots directly, combining Izumi, for the river that once irrigated its rice fields, with Hashi, the family name, to form Izumi Bridge. Izumibashi is also notable for being one of the few breweries in Japan that both grows and polishes its own sake rice by hand, a rare level of vertical control most producers leave to outside farmers. Its label features an akatonbo, or red dragonfly, a nod to the insects that hover over those same paddies each season.

Kurotonbo, meaning Black Dragonfly, is made from Yamadanishiki rice polished to 65 percent and brewed using the traditional kimoto method, in which brewers physically mash the yeast starter with wooden poles to draw out naturally occurring lactic bacteria, rather than adding it directly. The sake is then aged for at least two years, softening its character considerably.

The result is understated on the nose but rich on the palate, with chestnut, cream, and steamed rice giving way to sweet rice, nougat, and cocoa notes layered with deep umami. Serve it slightly warmed alongside roast chicken or other fried dishes.