2005 Lopez de Heredia - Rioja Vina Tondonia Gran Reserva Blanco (750ml)

A true collector’s white, and one of the rarest bottlings in Spain. López de Heredia has worked from Haro’s Barrio de la Estación since 1877, and it makes a Gran Reserva Blanco only in exceptional vintages, from the family’s legendary Viña Tondonia vineyard on a bend of the Ebro River. It’s Viura with a little Malvasía, aged for many years in old American oak barrels from the bodega’s own cooperage, then held in the cellars until the family feels it’s ready. Two decades on from the harvest, it’s just hitting its stride.

Long aging gives it a deep golden color and remarkable complexity: dried citrus peel, baked apple and quince, honey, beeswax, toasted hazelnut and spice, with a savory, briny edge reminiscent of fine sherry. Bright acidity keeps it lifted and fresh, and the finish goes on and on. Serve cool, not cold, and give it time in the glass. Pair with roast chicken, wild mushrooms, lobster, jamón ibérico or aged hard cheeses.