2024 Gonon, Pierre & Jean - Saint-Joseph Rouge MAGNUM (1.5L) [PRE ARRIVAL]

There are cult wines, and then there is Gonon. During the past five or so years, the Saint-Joseph Rouge from this house has become a cult wine — no other term will do — that is very difficult to find at any price, and very difficult to afford if found. Wine-Searcher The fact that we have the 2024 on the shelf is worth pausing over.

Pierre and Jean Gonon are among the last remaining old-school Saint-Joseph growers based in the original appellation around Tournon, Mauves, and Saint-Jean-de-Muzols. Their classic methods — taught to them by their father — capture the appellation's wild and savory, fresh and mineral character with great purity. Their most prized fruit comes from the legendary old plots of Raymond Trollat, their spiritual mentor, which they purchased in 2006. The domaine is farmed entirely organically on steep granite hillsides, and the reds are fermented in traditional open oak vats with foot punchdowns and a high proportion of whole clusters — the ancient custom of the region — then aged in demi-muids for 14 to 16 months. 

The Saint-Joseph Rouge opens with aromas of dark fruits, pepper, violet, olive, and leather, with a dense, mineral palate of striking length.  This is Syrah as it was made before anyone thought to make it easy — taut, aromatic, and built to age for a decade or more. Complex dark-spiced cherries, licorice, iodine, and wet dark stones with supple, fresh, and pure red to dark cherries and very defined tannins — an impeccable balance that already packs a sanguine twist of mineral at the finish.