2020 Chidaine - Montlouis Clos Habert

François Chidaine took over a small parcel of family vines in Montlouis in 1989 and has since become one of the Loire Valley's most celebrated winemakers, credited with reviving the reputation of Touraine's white wines. He converted his vineyards to organic farming in 1992 and to biodynamics in 1999, and his wife Manuéla joined him a year later to open the estate's tasting room, La Cave Insolite. Chidaine's holdings have since grown to thirty seven hectares split between Montlouis and Vouvray, earning the domaine a coveted three star rating from the Revue du Vin de France.

Clos Habert is a single site cuvée grown on flinty clay soils over a limestone tuffeau subsoil, planted with old vines of Chenin Blanc ranging from thirty to ninety years in age. The vineyard is farmed entirely in accordance with biodynamic principles, with no chemical treatments used in the vines. This is a demi-sec, or off-dry, expression, richer and more full bodied than the domaine's drier cuvées, though the residual sugar remains subtle and well integrated into the wine's structure.

The glass shows a pale gold color with aromas of white flowers, ripe orchard fruit, and a touch of chalky minerality. On the palate the wine is generous yet taut, with flavors of pear and honey carried by a vibrant, saline freshness through a long finish. Its gentle sweetness and bright acidity make it a fine match for spiced Asian dishes, roast poultry, or a wedge of soft ripened brie.