2020 Philippe Grisard - Verdesse Allobrogie Vice Versa (750ml)

Philippe Grisard, a third-generation winegrower, took over the former Gilbert Bouchez property in Cruet, in Savoie's Combe de Savoie, in 2010. He also maintains his family's historic nursery business, which gives him direct control over vine selection and plant quality, and has used that expertise to revive a number of nearly forgotten local grape varieties that had fallen out of favor with other growers in the region.

Vice Versa is built entirely around Verdesse, an obscure white grape native to the Isère and the wider Dauphiné region, with only around four hectares planted anywhere in France, making it one of the rarest varieties in the country. Grisard grows it on the varied clay-limestone, moraine, and scree soils typical of his mountain sites, and the grape's naturally high acidity and freshness are showcased in a straightforward, largely unadorned vinification meant to let its unusual character shine.

The wine offers pale gold color and aromas of white fruit, citrus, and delicate florals, with a lively, mineral-driven palate that reflects its mountain origins. It finishes energetic and dynamic rather than heavy. This bottling pairs especially well with lake fish, scallops, or other delicate seafood.