2022 Chidaine - Montlouis Les Tuffeaux (750ml)

François Chidaine is the grower who put Montlouis back on the map for world-class Chenin Blanc, and he was an early convert to biodynamic farming. Les Tuffeaux comes from some of his oldest vines, 30 to 90 years old, spread across Montlouis. The soils are clay, limestone and flint over the region’s soft tuffeau bedrock, which gives the cuvée its name. The grapes are hand-picked in several passes, then fermented on native yeasts in 600-liter barrels. The wine ages 11 months on its lees in the same barrels, with no new oak, so you get texture rather than wood. It’s made in a tendre style, just off-dry, and the sunny 2022 vintage gave it extra ripeness. Expect quince, citrus, exotic fruit and honey, with a chalky, flinty tension that keeps the sweetness in check. A brilliant match for spicy Thai food, pork with apples or a creamy goat cheese.