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All of the vineyards are planted with cover crops and plowed, and Champs enjoys an additional advantage in that his parcels are relatively large?only 12 different parcels over 11 hectares?meaning that he is more protected from contamination by chemical treatments in neighboring plots.\r\nVilmart \u0026 Cie. is not only one of the greatest grower-estates in Champagne, but one of the finest champagne producers of any type in the region.?-Peter Liem, Champagneguide.net\r\nIn the early days when I first approached Vilmart and started working with Laurent Champs, I had mixed emotions about some of the Champagnes. Please note what ?mixed emotions? actually means. It doesn\u0027t mean I doubted the worthiness of the wines or thought they were mediocre. It means I had different opinions about different aspects of the wines. I was thrilled with some, intrigued with all, and wondered whether a couple were too oaky.\r\nEarlier in his career, I think Laurent was flying blind on the matter of oak, and his recent Champagnes have wisely?presented a more integrated and elegant profile. Yet he is adamantly a vintner first, before he is a maker of Champagne: ?We do wine first, then afterward we do Champagne,? he says. Every base wine, without exception, sees at least ten months in casks of varying size and newness. Once in a while there\u0027s a brief disconnect between fruit and wood immediately after disgorgement, but 2-3 years on the cork make for a dramatic metamorphosis. Matter of fact, I\u0027ve found Vilmart among the most food-friendly of all my Champagnes, because they\u0027re so gracious, so vinous, so lordly in their carriage. It\u0027s clear to me Vilmart is a Champagne estate of unassailable consequence, a must-have for anyone Interested in the possibilities of this most suavely powerful and graceful of all wines. Casks are hardly the point anymore. 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The 2012 Comtes de Champagne is gorgeous. Warm and resonant in the
glass, the 2012 Comtes shows all the allure that makes this vintage so
appealing. The combination of bright citrus, mineral and floral notes
typical of Comtes, enhanced by the soft cont...
Fine and graceful, this dances across the palate with its bright, well-defined freshness and detailed flavors of Mandarin orange, toast point, cr?me de cassis and minerally oyster shell. Subtle in its intensity, with all the pieces seamlessly knit into an...
This mouthwatering ros? Champagne shows textural density, sitting like raw silk on the palate and offering flavors of dried white cherry, grapefruit granita and ground ginger, with a light and lingering toast note
