1990 D'Oliveiras - Madeira Sercial Colheita (750ml)

Pereira D’Oliveira has been making Madeira in Funchal since 1850, and the family still runs it. It’s renowned for a deep cellar of old single-vintage wines, aged slowly in large oak casks and bottled only as needed. Sercial is Madeira’s driest, most electric style, grown on the island’s coolest high-altitude vineyards. Thirty-plus years in cask have given this 1990 a golden-brown color and wonderful complexity. Expect dried fig, candied citrus zest, walnut and caramel on the nose, with hints of cinnamon, tea and fresh herbs. The palate is long and racy, with bright acidity that keeps it tangy and lifted right through the finish. Serve lightly chilled as an aperitif with almonds and olives, or with consommé or a firm aged cheese. It keeps for months once open.