2017 Le Ragnaie - Brunello di Montalcino Passo del Lume Spento (750ml)
Le Ragnaie is the project of Riccardo Campinoti, who acquired the property in 2002 and has since built it into a 28-hectare estate spread across three distinct parcels in Montalcino. Farmed organically, the estate has become known for wines that lean into freshness and precision rather than sheer power, a style shaped in large part by Campinoti's interest in the cooler, higher-altitude corners of the appellation that most Brunello producers had long overlooked.
Passo del Lume Spento comes from what is currently believed to be the highest vineyard in the entire Brunello di Montalcino zone, a south-facing plot of bush-trained vines sitting at 621 meters on a sandstone plateau. Its name, meaning "pass of the extinguished lantern," refers to winds strong enough to blow out a traveler's candle. Regulation changes in 2016 raised the appellation's elevation ceiling, allowing this site, planted since 2012, to qualify as Brunello for the first time with the 2017 vintage. The wine ferments naturally in concrete before resting for three years in large Slavonian oak vats.
The 2017 offers a lifted bouquet of sweet herbs, tobacco, and lavender, with a mineral, crushed-stone edge. The palate is silky yet lean, carried by bright acidity and grippy tannins into a long, savory finish. It pairs well with grilled game, braised meats, or a hearty red sauce pasta.