2019 Aubert - Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Park Avenue Estate (750ml)

Since its first vintage in 2000, Aubert has become one of California’s most sought-after Chardonnay producers. Its wines have a cult following for their rich, generous style. Founder Mark Aubert learned his craft under Helen Turley, then succeeded her as winemaker at both Peter Michael and Colgin before starting the label with his wife, Teresa. He makes the wines in a Burgundian style: every bottling comes from a single vineyard and is barrel-fermented. Over time Aubert has moved away from buying grapes toward its own estate sites in western Sonoma, and the winery now owns more than ten vineyards.

Park Avenue was Aubert’s fourth estate vineyard to be planted and its fifth to start producing wine. Mark bought the 12-acre parcel, a former apple orchard, in 2013. It sits on the Sonoma Coast between Aubert’s Lauren and CIX vineyards. The name comes from the long private road leading up to the vines. The vineyard is planted mostly to the Hyde clone of Chardonnay with a little Montrachet clone. The first two crops went into Aubert’s appellation blend, so 2019 is the first vineyard-designated release. It came from an excellent Sonoma vintage, when a long, cool season gave fruit with full flavor and bright acidity.

The wine opens with white peach, fresh pear, lemon curd, and key lime, along with chalk dust and hints of coriander, nutmeg, and white pepper. The palate is powerful and somewhat reserved, with a firm, almost grippy texture that gives it real presence. Give it time in the decanter, then serve it with butter-poached lobster or veal in a cream sauce.