2022 Alzinger, Leo - Riesling Steinertal Smaragd (750ml)

Leo Alzinger Jr. took the reins of his family's estate in Unterloiben in 2002, arriving with experience gained abroad, including a harvest in New Zealand and time spent under the legendary Hans Günter Schwarz at Müller Catoir in the Pfalz. That background shaped a winemaking philosophy built around restraint and precision rather than power, and Alzinger's wines are known in the Wachau for their transparency and calm elegance rather than any sense of forcefulness.

Steinertal is a tiny, hidden vineyard of just five and a half hectares, tucked into a cooler pocket of the valley with a southwest facing slope and stony, shallow gneiss soils threaded with pockets of loess. Riesling is planted on the highest, most barren parcels of the site, where old vines and a favorable exposure allow grapes to reach physiological ripeness without racing ahead in sugar. Harvest comes later here than at many neighboring domaines, and the fruit is crushed whole cluster, given a short maceration, then settled before a spontaneous fermentation, mostly in stainless steel.

The layered nose of white pepper, crushed rock, lemon pith, and white peach, followed by a taut, mineral driven palate, makes this a natural match for fried trout, roast pork, or a sharp aged cheese.