2022 Charles Van Canneyt - Charmes Chambertin (750ml)

Charles Van Canneyt was just 20 when he took the reins of Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat from his grandfather, Alain Hudelot, in 2008, and he quickly lifted the Vougeot estate into the upper tier of the Côte de Nuits. In 2012 he launched a small négociant label under his own name to work with sites beyond the family holdings, and in 2021 he and his wife, Anne-Sophie Gagey, acquired Domaine des Chézeaux in Gevrey-Chambertin.

Charmes-Chambertin is one of Gevrey-Chambertin's nine grand crus, lying on the lower slope just across the Route des Grands Crus from Chambertin, with gravelly soils that make the vines work hard. Van Canneyt buys must from like-minded growers whose farming he follows through harvest, then raises the wine in his own cellar for about 12 months in French oak, 20 percent new, favoring gentle extraction and purity.

The 2022 is immediately seductive, with fresh red berries, sweet cherry, crushed blueberry, and a delicate floral lift. Supple, velvety tannins meet bright acidity for a racy mid-palate, with a touch of minerality and gentle spice carrying into a long, red-fruited finish. Pour it alongside seared duck breast or roast quail.