2023 De Moor - Chablis l'Humeur du Temps (750ml)

Olivier de Moor grew up in Courgis, the village where he and his wife Alice have run their domaine since planting their first vines there in 1989. Alice, who hails from the Jura, met Olivier while he managed vineyards at a larger Chablis estate, and the two set out together to farm on their own terms. The couple has worked organically since 2005, tending each parcel by hand and keeping cellar intervention to a minimum. Rather than chasing a single-vineyard ideal, they built this cuvée specifically to reflect the character of each vintage as a whole, a philosophy that runs through everything they make.

L'Humeur du Temps, meaning "the mood of the times," draws on three to four estate parcels around Courgis planted beginning in 1995, each vinified separately before blending. The grapes are hand-harvested, destemmed, and pressed gently, then fermented spontaneously with native yeasts. Aging takes place across a mix of vessels, including used Burgundy barrels, large old foudres, and enamel-lined steel tanks, for close to a year without stirring or racking. The wine is bottled unfiltered, with only a small addition of sulfur at that final stage.

The wine shows lemon curd, yellow apple, and a light spiced note over a distinct chalky minerality. The palate is precise and layered, with saline energy running through a long, mineral-driven finish. It pairs well with grilled trout, fresh chèvre, or a citrus-dressed seafood salad.