2023 Hirtzberger - Gruner Veltliner Honivogl Smaragd (750ml)
The Hirtzberger family has spent generations refining its winemaking in Spitz an der Donau, at the western edge of the Wachau, sticking closely to methods proven over decades rather than chasing trends. The estate's guiding aim has always been varietal purity, crafting wines that speak plainly of their vineyard, vintage, and grape rather than layering on winemaking flourish. That philosophy has made Honivogl one of the most closely watched Grüner Veltliners in Austria.
Honivogl sits at the foot of the famed Singerriedel vineyard, its steep terraces built on weathered primary rock topped with loess. The 2023 vintage draws mainly from this rockier lower ground, with a smaller portion coming from the more loess dominated Axpoint site nearby. Grapes are picked entirely by hand across several passes through the vineyard to capture only fully ripe fruit, then fermented in steel without any addition of sugar before resting in large traditional wooden casks to build structure.
The wine opens with juicy yellow apple, fresh green pear, and a touch of ivy and yeast, giving way to a more reserved, savory mid-palate with notes reminiscent of miso. White pepper and zesty tension carry through a long, mouth filling finish. Serve it with spicy shrimp stir fry, roast quail, or aged Gruyère.