2023 Prager - Riesling Wachau Smaragd Achleiten (750ml)
Weingut Prager is run today by Toni Bodenstein, son-in-law of the estate's founder Franz Prager, who has spent decades studying the wildly varied microclimates that define the Wachau valley. Based in Weissenkirchen, Bodenstein is widely regarded as one of the region's foremost authorities on terroir, and under his direction the estate has become one of the benchmark producers for both Riesling and Grüner Veltliner grown along the Danube.
The Achleiten vineyard sits just east of Weissenkirchen and ranks among the most celebrated sites in the Wachau, its steep terraces first cultivated as far back as Roman times. In places the topsoil measures barely forty centimeters before giving way to bedrock of Gföhler gneiss, amphibolite, and slate, a combination Bodenstein has called destroyed soil for its harsh, mineral intensity. This bottling carries the Smaragd designation, reserved for grapes picked at the ripest end of the harvest.
The wine opens with a flinty, smoky edge of green moss and citrus foliage, delicate and bright. On the palate it turns rounder, offering ripe plum and pale peach with real smoothness, before finishing on tingling, precise citrus. Pour it with grilled langoustines, herb roasted turkey, or an aged alpine cheese.