2024 Alzinger, Leo - Gruner Veltliner Steinertal Smaragd (750ml)

Weingut Alzinger farms just over eleven hectares of terraced vineyards in Unterloiben, directly across the road from fellow Wachau icon Emmerich Knoll. Leo Alzinger Jr. has run the family estate since 2002, bringing back lessons learned during stints in New Zealand and at Müller Catoir in Germany's Pfalz. His approach favors gentle handling at every stage, from whole cluster pressing through a careful overnight settling of the must before fermentation begins.

Steinertal is a uniquely complex vineyard, well suited to both Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, facing just slightly southwest so it holds some evening warmth that cool air currents from the north help temper. Soil depth and temperature shift considerably across the site, and Grüner Veltliner is planted on the lower, deeper terraces, where gneiss, mica schist, primary rock, and loam give the wine a touch of creamy texture without dulling its acidity or mineral edge. Fermentation happens spontaneously in stainless steel, with a small portion aged in neutral Austrian oak.

The 2024 shows white pepper and crushed fern on the nose, joined by apricot, a touch of mango, and delicate honey blossom, all carried by fine citrus tension through to a long, salty finish. Pour it with roast pork chops, a spring pea dish, or a young alpine cheese.