2024 Lioco - Chardonnay Sonoma County (750ml)

LIOCO started in 2001, in the alley behind Spago Beverly Hills. Kevin O’Connor, the restaurant’s wine director, and wine salesman Matt Licklider wanted California wines that put nuance ahead of sheer power. The label launched in 2005, and its name joins the founders’ surnames. Matt and Sara Licklider became sole owners in 2017. Winemaker Drew Huffine joined in 2024, working with viticulturist Prudy Foxx. LIOCO owns no vineyards. It buys fruit from organic, often dry-farmed sites across Northern California.

The Sonoma County Chardonnay is a blend from several vineyards, including Burnside, Occidental, Piner, Hall Road, and Lawson. It uses a mix of clones, among them Old Wente, Clone 4, Clone 95, and Clone 96. The vineyards are farmed with organic practices, and the grapes are picked by hand. They are destemmed and foot-trodden before pressing. Fermentation and about six months of aging take place entirely in stainless steel tanks, with no oak. The wine gets a light filtration before bottling.

This unoaked Chardonnay is bright and focused. It opens with green apple, lime zest, and white flowers, followed by quince, candied lemon peel, and a mineral, slightly saline finish. It works well with shrimp and grits, fried cod, or chicken in mustard sauce.